NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPRING-SUMMER 2006
NEW YORK, Sep 9, 2005/ FR/ — Kenneth Cole kicked off Fashion Week at the tents at Bryant Park this season once more. Inaugurating again such an institutional event can always be perilous, especially when it happens twice a year.
Although the established designer might seem lighthearted about it, one can suspect that being under the opening spotlights every six months also can give the shivers. But Kenneth Cole can be sure he will not lose the growing recognition he has gained through the years.
In his case and with this collection, his fame should even legitimately still be growing as he has managed to combine commercially viable clothes with a very mature creativity.
In this often craved for but not-so-common combination, Kenneth Cole successfully asserts new proportions for women, by underlining his constantly high-waisted trousers with thin belts. He sometimes does the same with his dresses but with much wider belts.
The result is a sixties silhouette made casually contemporary. Be it in his skirts, dresses and trousers, Kenneth Cole definitely seems to proclaim the realm of low waistlines gone, leaving it only to men’s suits.
The womenswear three most iconic looks were all worn by Lily Cole. She wore first a beautiful clover crinkle chiffon double-breasted blouse on an earth-color linen highwaisted trouser cinched by an olive thin belt and matching silk strappy wedge.
Her second look presented a very refined dark navy paper nylon pleated and self-belted dress adorned with an eggshell chain bracelet and a pair of scarlet spectator high heels.
Finally, Lily Cole was seen on the runway in a purple crinkle chiffon self-belted dress walking in old gold ballet flats.
Other most noticeable looks for women in this very refined collection consisted of a dark navy sheared empire waist swimsuit with an eggshell spectator frame tote and eggshell ballet flats. A cropped high-waisted trouser made of a light navy cotton linen with a thin scarlet belt worn with a scarlet crinkle chiffon blouse and Espresso spectator high heels made for another spectacular look.
But the news for Kenneth Cole this season is definitely his use of ruffles ; they adorn with equal success the necklines of silk wrap dresses or blouses.
As far as menswear is concerned the same general organic tones as for womenswear were used eggshell, sands and khakis or as the master designer calls it “moss”.
Small bousons worn on shorts, classic suits of linen, chamois camp shirts are the basis of his wardrobe. Men can also complement it with thinly striped navy pieces for more nautique moments : perfect looks for hype but real yachting in Saint-Tropez or Monte Carlo.
His men”s outfits perfectly complement the women’s looks and their sometimes wide-legged trousers creating an harmomy that is seldom found in such different structures for the two genders.
They also have a common target: a still young but already established clientele who is looking for discreetly refined clothes with generally reasonable colors even if both male and female can sometimes dare a flamboyant scarlet or a frank purple.
JEAN PAUL CAUVIN