PARIS PRET-A-PORTER (PARISFASHION WEEK) FALL-WINTER 2008-2009
PARIS, March 2008 /FR/ — Looking back on the Fall 2008 season and particularly on the catwalks of Paris Fashion Week, several trends are emerging. The most blatent one concerns a silhouette with a marked waistline and moulded bust.
It might remind the amazons by the strapped, fastened, cinched characteristics and some asymmetrical top (Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière). Compulsory waistline is marked by tight pleats, a belt or a wide waistband. The curves of the bust and waist are moulded inside a piece or series of pieces meant first to protect the body (Ann Demeulemeester).
Leather or suede are a must in one of the materials used on the bodies of these urban warriors, who also know that their battle takes place on the grounds of femininity. Fur (Jean-Paul Gaultier) or even ostrich feathers (Haider Ackermann) do make this figure extremely feminine, keeping the nobility of a female knight with an added charm and spirit of softness.
The amazon’s bottom part consists ideally in extremely fitted second skin leather leggings, which can be worn with laced boots or in a series of pieces (Ann Demeulemmester) reconstituting together the shape of a soft Jodhpur.
The amazon touch is also added to some dresses, with strapped ribbons and metallic buckle (at Chanel) on a blue or flesh coloured dress, or interpreted (by Alber Elbaz for Lanvin) with many metallic loops on a black dress underlining the bust and waist horizontally, vertically, asymmetrically to be left loose in the bottom part. Karl Lagerfeld has also, for his eponymous brand, created a shiny tight waistline on a black dress, with padded appliquéd epaulettes, giving his Amazon a futuristic edge.
But equally far from Barbarella or Shakespeare’s Shrew, the amazons of Fall 2008 indulge in serious but comfortable, noble fabrics, they make leather more feminine with sheer delicacy, are not afraid to display their curves but with a high standard of decency. It could be that a new figure has risen: the romantic Boho female. Her nobility shows in her somewhat apparently careless look, which reveals that her real interest lies elsewhere than in clothing.
However cool she can be, this lady knows and wears the best materials. No matter how inspired she is by influences coming from central Asia, she still wants to make a statement with her personal presence resounding with delicacy. She is a woman, a free woman, who can wrap up her emotions in a subtle armour, but her favourite weapon is a glance she only pulls out when she is disarmed.
She is a true romantic, not afraid of showing her vulnerability to who might really deserve it. She is passionate and refined. She could be, in a nutshell, the new “Parisienne”.
JEAN PAUL CAUVIN