PARIS MENSWEAR FALL 2008

PARIS, Jan 17, 2008 / FR / There is something different about this collection by Sachiko Okada and Aaron Sharif. If one remembers their original passion for black, the very reason why they created their brand. If the designers’ subsequent exploration of bright colours at London Fashion Week some seasons ago had put the stress on their seaming techniques. If just one of their last entirely black collections shown in Paris a year ago had allowed fashionistas to check close up the delicate craftsmanship they were using to play on light by placing sheer layers of organza over matte fabrics. If all this is true, it is also true that all these elements are mixed together in this collection and this is what makes it different.

It is as if, after having explored radical design ways, they were now trying to find a balance between various, apparently opposed directions. Although the press notes indicate that they have now abandoned temporarily “romantic silhouettes”, romanticism still pervades their collection but with a clearer statement.

Watching the runway show, we were taken on a route that had already gone a long way. The inspiration for the season, the Buffalo Soldiers, is far from being treated in a literal manner. It’s more of an interpretation of these Afro-American entire cavalry regiments members who fought the Indian wars in the second half of the 18th century.

Blaak’s interpretation of the theme is very subtle: on a base of their favourite non-colour, they add here and there touches of sometimes discreet shocking pink or absinth, sometimes more obvious brightly coloured checkered material in wide shirts or bermudas.

Some looks are complemented with white polka dots, which obviously leaves the brand’s DNA on the collection. Only the hats, all black and more closely inspired by the cavalry soldiers, give the silhouettes a consistency thorughout the show and make a nice eyewink to their theme.
But the reference is never historical, always subtle and reworked to create, look after look, a consistent proposal for today.

Aged leather shows that some boots are made for walking while other shoewear in fowl, reveal the animal impulse of these warriors who now live in the city with a nonchalant behaviour.
Comfortable « chunky » pieces of knitwear  come in cardigans of tamed shades contrasting with one holographic belt used like a talisman, as if it could conjure up memories of a dreamt about Africa.
The collection is like an invitation to integrate in a man’s wardrobe influences coming from various horizons, and probably intends to assert that mixing is right for your look, as long as you reinvent yourself, as long as your desire is genuine!
Jean Paul Cauvin