NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPRING-SUMMER 2009

NEW YORK, September 14, 2009 /FR/ - Although the Paris Haute Couture this summer did not particularly  seem to refer to Yves Saint Laurent’s unique conribution to the world of fashion -probably for reasons of lack of time between the French designer’s actual death, subsequent funeral and the beginning of the Haute Couture schedule- some New York based fashion houses seem to have paid a particular tribute to the unforgettable tuxedos for women imagined throughout his career by the French fashion genius.

Ralph Lauren in his Spring-Summer collection is most obviously quoting Mr. Saint Laurent, and he did it with much respect, being inspired by the general combination of soft tailoring so particular to these looks originally adapted by Yves Saint Laurent in his time for a woman’s silhouette.

Many suits in the collection by the American designer do recall softly in the shades of his collection for the season the shapes and general combination of refinement and softness so present in the Saint laurent’s revisitation of the formal male outfit.

At the Chado Ralph Rucci runway show, it was more of a respectful nod to the master couturier than a full tribute, but expressed more literally in a carefully built black suit worn on bare skin.

Many other designers have pointed to teh direction of the French founder of the world-famous brand in a more discrett manner, and not always in black.  Among these brands, Malan Breton, Tibi and even Diesel, in its Black Gold runway show had some standouts in their respective collections clearly pointing in the same direction too.

The next question could be: will Paris prêt-à-porter at the end of the month pay the same “hommage” to a national fashion icon, or will it confirm the biblical quote : “Noone is a prophet in their own country” ?

JEAN PAUL CAUVIN

All photos courtesy of Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week