NEW YORK, NY January 18, 2018
The Automne Hiver 2018 collection of Palomo arises from one of the most recurrent
activities in the history of the human being: hunting. While the Spanish menswear firm does not try to make an apology for this, it does find a deep inspiration in the aesthetic that surrounds it, especially in the area of Andalucí a Homeland of Alejandro Gómez Palomo, the creative director of the brand. In Alejandro’s head, as well as in this one, his latest collection, the color palettes and textures of a very picturesque English landscape are combined with the light and southern heat that influence the creations of the male designer. In this same line, in which Alejandro has been able to combine the world of the montería (Spanish term for hunting event) with modern couture, Palomo proposes this season a series of weaves and figures that contrast enormously with the proposals the brand presented last season.
The silhouettes have grown in volume and weight. Inspired by those portraits of Velázquez in the court of Felipe IV, the model acquires this season a much more sober, almost magnanimous importance. Skirts, corsets, capes and wide coats, the designer wants to combine with a series of more “practical” pieces, which come close to what we could traditionally defineas huntingclothes. Cargo trousers are re-attempted in an ironic exercise to bring this garment closer toa bucolic utilitarianism. Fajones (sashes), deconstructed pants, flared pants and drapes will not be missing either. Palomo will use fabrics traditionally attributed to the English male wardrobe. Tweed, tartans andvarious different types of wools that contrast with iridescent taffetas, velvets and brocades of all kinds.
To accompany his garments with an imaginary of accessories that corresponds to the aesthetics of this, complete collection, Palomo has collaborated with the sevillano milliner Tolentino. The latter brand doesnot only shares homeland, but a developed taste for all types of cheerful volumes as well. In a demonstration of their good savoir faire, Tolentino and Palomo present a colorful collection of traditional headwear, in which we can find showy top hats, felt caps and the imperialist elementt that so fascinates Alejandro: The Napoleonic hat. An acrobatic fantasy.
For his bags, he has used fabrics closely related to the world of hunting. Leather, gazelle skins, deer antlers and many fringes and charms that remind the hooks that the hunters would use to load larger preys.