Category Archives: Fashion Shows

DELPOZO SS14

DELPOZO  SS14

DELPOZO SS14

NEW YORK,  NY  December  6, 2013/FR/

 

Josep Font used nature and elements of light as major points of reference for DELPOZO‘s spring/summer 2014 collection. Finding initial inspiration from the portrait, Gypsy Woman With Tambourine, by Carot, Font gave us a collection of various optical and geometric shapes styled with both defined and flowing lines, while throwing in a bit of playfulness with a flower or ten.

An obvious and key part of this modern bohemia collection is both raffia and linen, constructed into short and long ensembles. Bell-shaped skirts were paired with off-the-shoulder, sweetheart neckline bodices. Sunflowers graced the patterns of black layered skirts and flowing gowns. Shell tops in cream organza were cropped in the front and left long in the back, paired with a milage of colorful spring blooms on a straighter floor-length skirt.  Even pants and denim came out to play, since what real gypsy wouldn’t have a comfortable pair in her whimsical, carefree, yet ever stylish wardrobe?

 

 

DELPOZO  SS14

DELPOZO SS14

DIOR HOMME SS14

Dior Homme SS14

Dior Homme SS14

NEW YORK, NY  December  6, 2013/FR/

 

“Minimal baroque” was Dior Homme’s creative director Kris Van Assche’s starting point for the spring/summer 2014 collection. While staying faithful to his minimalist eye, it was a show comprised of opposites; formal wear set against sports casual that did not look out place among the other European collections of the season.

Van Assche set out to shake up the foundations of menswear and traditional formality by exploring how a wearer chooses to express themselves through their wardrobe. The result? A mix and match collection filled with variables. There were long sleeves, short sleeves, and no sleeves, matched with stovepipe pants or shorts. Luxurious, lightweight leather was layered over wool, nylon, knits, and more interestingly, neoprene sweaters and satin t-shirts. The suits were boxy and the cuts clean, and when the jackets were paired with shorts the whole outfit channeled a tuxedo at the beach look – a style Van Assche has been talking about for a while now.

It may have been a spring collection but the color palette was distinctly fall, with deep wine colored burgundies, teals, and petrol blues making up much of the sublime tonal range. The contrasts continued with metallic patchwork stitched onto jackets and shorts, inspired by the artist John Chamberlain best known for his Miami-esque Art Deco motifs. These geometric shapes were then repeated again and again when reflected in the mirrored maze stage set that the models wound their way through.

 

Dior Homme SS14

Dior Homme SS14

Martin Cooper for Belstaff SS14

Belstaff Menswear SS14

Belstaff Menswear SS14

NEW YORK, NY  December  6, 2013/FR/

 

Belstaff, best known for its motorcycle heritage, has entered into a second life since its relaunch two years ago, having grown into a global, luxury outfit with flagships across the world. For this season however, the brand has turned to its vast archive dating back from the 1930s for inspiration.

Martin Cooper, the man behind the label’s new vision, introduced tangerine colored anoraks and trenches in waxed cotton, shoulder padded biker jackets and even a leather, belted racing suit (a onesie, in other words) in military green. The military vibe was almost oo much when it came to the painted camouflage jackets, however ribbed sweaters in petrol blue and burnt orange balanced out the collection.

Cooper described the new collection as “a balance between authenticity and adventure,” and with high tech fabrics set against suedes and corrugated denim, not to mention the utilitarian outerwear, Belstaff is doing a good job at reinventing the classics.

 

Belstaff Menswear SS14

Belstaff Menswear SS14

Jil Sander SS14

JILL SANDER  SS14

JIL SANDER SS14

NEW YORK,  NY  December  6, 2013/FR/

 

This was Jil Sander’s third season back with her eponymous brand, and the German designer’s spring/summer 2014 collection is a confident marriage of streetwear shapes with bold colors.

Futuristic tailored pieces in soft creams were accented by pops of color, from a glimpse on the edge of a cuff to a suit jacket in glowing red. In accompaniment were double-breasted jackets and coats paired with oversized bermuda shorts that gave the collection a more youthful spirit that softened the clinical tailoring.

Sander hit a dud note when it came to the glossy, box-shaped leather jackets, but quickly made up for it with her loose, pleated silhouettes and subtle patterns. The designer is best known for her knack at keeping minimalism exciting and this season is no exception.

 

JIL SANDER  SS14

JIL SANDER SS14

Ferragamo SS14

Ferragamo  SS14

Ferragamo SS14

NEW YORK, NY  December  5, 2013/FR/

 

Reinterpreted men’s sportswear has surfaced time and time again this season, and Ferragamo’s spring/summer 2014 collection was a rhythmic and deconstructed take on it. Creative director Massimiliano Giornetti employed a color palette of cobalt, cactus green, cinnamon, marine blue, red, and chalk to tailored jackets, and Bermuda-length shorts.

The paper-like summer suits were made from cool, waxed cotton, and were matched with quilted blousons, and crisp button-up shirts. Elasticated waists and sleeveless structured jackets injected the sporty feel to the collection, while folded hems and concealed buttons added a modern twist to the more traditional tailoring.

To top it all off, oversized numerals were stitched on to light knitwear in block colors, adding a final touch of sporting dynamism to the already strong line.

 

Ferragamo  SS14

Ferragamo SS14

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