Category Archives: Fashion Shows

Viktor & Rolf F/W14

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V_R_WCFF14_0605-682x1024New York,  NY  March 14,  2014

The backdrop design for the Viktor & Rolf fall/winter 2014-15 show was a nest of knitted roads; the runway was a lamp-lit street. Joan as Policeman singing a soothingly slow version of “Highway to Hell” gracefully enhanced the gentle evening melancholia of this setting. The first silhouettes appeared as light-grey as the road itself, a dress or two meandering down the front to a tapered tip.

Asymmetrical touches here and there were radical, on one occasion revealing the merest lunula of hip skin on one side, a strip of ankle skin on the other. The most surprising items in the first sequence were the trompe-l’oeil outfits, simulating multiple layers and enlarged impressions of silver-grey cable-knit. The flattening effect of illusionary layering was wisely relieved at times by lengthy boiled wool coats textured further by strands of chunky raised-surface cable-knit.

Lighter white and blue tones were gradually phased in towards the end of the lineup, culminating in a dazzling watered sky-blue dress surmounted by a cloud-grey choker. Out of the flash of sky-colored garments came a burst of salmon peach cable-knits and flower prints, the floral patterning toying with the recurrent v-neck inspiration, spilling organically over its frame. The collection is both original and subtle, ensuring that the wearability of this chic urban autumnal collection remains high.

CHANEL F/W14

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38New York,  NY  March 14,  2014

Transformed under the domes of the Grand Palais for the fall/winter 2014-15 presentations was a Pop Art-inspired marketplace where special invitees and models alike could snatch up Eau de Chanel mineral waters, the latest 2.55 bag, and carry them chicly to check-out in a supermarket basket fashioned from Chanel’s signature jacket weighting chain.

As for the actual collection presentation, models purused down aisle five wearing moth-ridden bubblegum pink sweats, paired with a matching cropped turtleneck, and finished with a floor sweeping tweed coat with billowy sleeves. Other chic little sweatsuits were solid and sparkly with metallic threads. Bell-shaped tweed skirts were paired with matching little capelets and front-zippered jackets with exaggerated bishop sleeves.

Black or silver leather leggings were worn under many skirt suits and we noticed plenty of knit separates donning a color palette inspired by the freshest array of produce. Leather played a supporting role to tweed and knits, with guest appearances by that famous quilted texture on coats and jackets. Each and every ensemble was paired with trainers from the sportif Chanel spring couture show. Because Karl has a sense of humor, and because let’s be honest, we need a bit of comfort in selecting the perfect rump roast, after all.

Comme des Garçons F/W14

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CDG_0421New York, NY  March 10,  2014

Rei Kawakubo’s latest Comme Des Garçons collection for Paris Fashion Week fall/winter 2014-15  was heavy on knitwear, and even heavier on shapes and volume.

Most of the garments were circular or flatbed knits, and are meant to be worn rather uniquely, as some of the models displayed pillowy knitwear around their torsos, constraining their arms, or even covering their eyes.

Kawakubo played up layering looks with multiple cardigan-like sweaters piled on top of one another, or knotted capes and ponchos seemingly squishy and soft to the touch in mostly dark black and midnight blue.  Thanks to Kawakubo, dressing for comfort never appeared to be so chic, nor more artistic.

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FENDI F/W14

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New York, NY  March 10,  2014

This collection is heavy on Italian influence, since the designer considers the most exquisite pieces to be born here. Black once again reigned supreme with pops of white, baby pink, and military green. Like a twist of citrus to an already lovely martini, Lagerfeld closes his collection debut with an addition to Fendi’s Little Monsters: a Bag Buddy of a mini Karl, bedecked completely in fur, of course.

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Bally F/W14

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New York, NY  March 4, 2014

The looks from Bally women’s fall/winter 2014-15 collection were nothing less than bold meets minimal. The pinstriped pants and boxy patched blazers in the collection reflected masculinity while pencil skirts resonated with femininity. Leather bomber jackets with a hint of  cashmere provided a basic staple for the season and could easily be dressed up or down. The chic daywear and outwear is made up of camel coats, denim jeans, and warm cashmere sweaters.

As far as accessories go, Bally focused on suede crocodile totes, leather satchels, and basic square shoulder bags. Footwear staples included over-the-knee boots, pointy-toed pumps, and rounded toe ankle boots.

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