DIOR HOMME SS14
NEW YORK, NY July 26, 2013/FR/
“Minimal baroque” was Dior Homme’s creative director Kris Van Assche’s starting point for the spring/summer 2014 collection. While staying faithful to his minimalist eye, it was a show comprised of opposites; formal wear set against sports casual that did not look out place among the other European collections of the season.
Van Assche set out to shake up the foundations of menswear and traditional formality by exploring how a wearer chooses to express themselves through their wardrobe. The result? A mix and match collection filled with variables. There were long sleeves, short sleeves, and no sleeves, matched with stovepipe pants or shorts. Luxurious, lightweight leather was layered over wool, nylon, knits, and more interestingly, neoprene sweaters and satin t-shirts. The suits were boxy and the cuts clean, and when the jackets were paired with shorts the whole outfit channeled a tuxedo at the beach look – a style Van Assche has been talking about for a while now.
It may have been a spring collection but the color palette was distinctly fall, with deep wine colored burgundies, teals, and petrol blues making up much of the sublime tonal range. The contrasts continued with metallic patchwork stitched onto jackets and shorts, inspired by the artist John Chamberlain best known for his Miami-esque Art Deco motifs. These geometric shapes were then repeated again and again when reflected in the mirrored maze stage set that the models wound their way through.
“I really started this season with a lot of contrasts and contradictions that I wanted to make worK,” Van Assche explained. In doing so, the Belgian designer has bent the rules of traditional tailoring and created a collection that successfully marries casual ease with boardroom chic.
DIOR HOMME SS14
CHANEL COUTURE A/W14
NEW YORK, NY July 25, 2013/FR/
The Grand Palais was transformed into an ancient ruin for Chanel’s haute couture show. As opera music resounded through the seemingly derelict theater, hesitant editors hovered over their dusty chairs, surrounded by broken windows and rubble. Then the ragged curtains opened, and a silver futuristic city from the Far East was revealed.
Old world meets the new was the running theme of the show, and for this season Karl Lagerfeld paired the fashion house’s historic couture craftsmanship and dressmaking skills with modern textiling, bringing old technology into the 21st century. The necklines and silhouettes were, at times, of another century, with dresses, tunics, and jackets worn together in a monochromatic palette, broken up by hints of blue, beige, and pink.
Tightly woven tweeds that upon closer look were embroidered with ribbons, wools, sequins, and chiffon were the toast of the collection. They came in the form of slim jackets and short skirts, layered over longer underskirts and thigh-high suede boots. Texture was a strong element throughout, and among the tweeds were tiny glittering squares and patterns stitched on to sleeves and mini-skirts.
For a couture collection, the full-length gowns were sparse – not that it mattered. The eveningwear came in light, crumpled silks, set against gauze and shimmering panels of tiles, that looked to a more modern way of approaching couture. With low block heels and slouchy belts adding a fresher feel, it’s clear Lagerfeld never misses a beat.
CHANEL COUTURE A/W14
Kenzo Resort 2014
NEW YORK, NY July 22, 2013/FR/
Sometimes we all have a longing for a little California sunshine and Kenzo hits that sweet spot with itsResort 2014 collection. Made up of beachy stripes, palm tree prints, and bubblegum pinks, the brand’s latest offering welcomes you to the West coast.
Carol Lim and Humberto Leon take you back to their home state with a collection that exudes nostalgia, while still taking risks. Volume dominates silhouettes with wide jackets, cropped shirts, and ruffled off the shoulder tops. These more structured pieces are accentuated with vibrant scuba fabric, recalling summer leisure. For the more classic Californian, Kenzo presents cool, painterly garments in light cotton.
Finally, chunky accessories and clunky sandals of nubuck and neoprene are perfect for shopping on Rodeo drive with a striking pool blue, orange or green bag in tow.
NEW YORK, NY July 2, 2013/FR/
Miuccia Prada has taken a trip back in time to 1950s Hawaii for her men’s spring/summer 2014 show in Milan this year. “Menacing Paradise” was the term used by Prada to describe the stage set, and as the models traversed the runway against a tropical backdrop, the foreboding sounds of helicopters roared through the venue. Prada is no stranger to putting on a cinematic show, and this time the feel was very Apocalypse Now.
A departure from last season’s luxurious purity, the brand has brought back prints on wool sweaters, silk shirts and retro travel cases that evoke exotic clichés of a bygone era – think From Here to Eternity and the darkened paradise of Pearl Harbor, or a Rat Pack-era Palm Springs.
The color palette, predominantly made up of navy, brown and burgundy, is considered and affecting, with mango yellows and sharp teals injecting an additional zing. Silky blouson jackets adorned with graphic pin-up girls are another highlight, not to mention the fluidity of the silk shorts.
The tropical prints are repeatedly paired with pinstripe suits and double breasted jackets left open, giving way to a heady romanticism – all the more so due to additional female models clad in Miu Miu esque silk dresses and excerpts from the Risky Business and Body Heat soundtracks playing throughout.
For spring 2014 the Prada man has added a Honolulu Aloha to the season, moving between themes of vintage travel, war, romance and the oppressive heat of the tropics. What’s best about this latest offering is that the clothes can be viewed as individual pieces, rather than whole looks, allowing you to mix and match.
Bottega Veneta SS14
NEW YORK, NY July 1. 2013/FR/
Bottega Veneta’s spring/summer 2014 show in Milan was saturated with juxtaposition, playing with polarity in palette and silhouette, while maintaining an overall feel of a crisp and modern collection.
In the show, tailored pants were paired with full sleeves and wider jackets. Still focused on a more masculine style, the materials were less contradictory, with garments of cotton, leather and suede. The shoes, too, spoke the breezy language of summer, made of woven fabrics, in a slipper-like style.
The colors spanned the grayscale, while dipping into rich tones of purple, green, and red. Checks seemed to be the most prominent pattern, allowing Bottega Veneta to present strong lines and tailoring as a foil to the airier aspects.
Said Creative Director, Tomas Maier, “The collection is more about contrast than anything else.” Balance, however, seems just as crucial and Bottega Veneta certainly found the right proportions.
Bottega Veneta SS14