Taking a sneak peek at Julien Fournié’s Fall 2014 haute couture collection, we see multiple shades of black taking center stage thanks to a few chosen contrasting colors which directed the attention to the shadow instead of the light.
“I’ve been thinking about the precise elegance of Maria Casarès in the 1945 movie by Riobert Bresson Les Dames du Bois de Boulogne,” said Julien Fournié when asked about his inspiration for the collection.
Everything is not black and white, as you can see. Yet, what is interesting is the question that the couturier asked himself, “How could I render the charm printed on film in black and white, and integrate it to the necessary colors of real life?”
He found the answer and you will discover it on Jun 8, 2014 at the Oratoire du Louvre, 145 rue Saint-Honoré, Paris 1er where he will unveil is Fall 2014 haute couture collection.
NEW YORK, NY July 8, 2014
Atelier Versace kicked off the Couture season yesterday, and Donatella Versace‘s latest was seeped in glamour, but that of a tailored sort. Her first look was a woolen rounded shoulder jacket paired with a wrap skirt that was fairly subdued, save for a panel of sheer boning at the waist. This subtle nod to the art of tailoring ran through the collection writ large. Another important detail throughout the show? The art of deconstruction. Ball gowns were paired down to a bustier and a voluminous silk skirt that didn’t quite make a full circle. Then, there was the evening dress slit to the waist, revealing some trou underneath, or the white dress with a sparkly bodice that seemed pieced together by only a few strips of fabric. On the beauty front, things were quite put together, including a strong cat-eye and a slicked back chignon-ponytail hybrid. Other polished flourishes included leather gloves, or a single dangling earring. Donatella’s take on tailored works wonders in our book.
Courtesy of: Daily Front Row
NEW YORK, NY July 7, 2014
As Creative Director Kris Van Assche combed the Dior archives, he stumbled upon a wonderfully relevant letter, written by Christian Diorduring the 1950s. The letter reads, “It is necessary to maintain traditions for them to be transmitted to the generations that follow. In troubled times such as ours we must maintain these traditions, which are our luxury, and the flower of our civilization.”From this quote, the Dior Homme spring/summer 2015 collection began to emerge, with Assche seeking to design in dialogue with Mr. Dior. The collection reinvigorates the spirit of Christian Dior, rekindling the visionary’s fondness for formality while maintaining a beachy calm.The collection begins with The Man in the Navy Pinstripe Suit, the elegant, though clichéd bourgeois businessman. However, these traditional pinstripes are soon deconstructed and reinterpreted into broken lines, nautical Breton stripes, Mr. Dior’s handwriting, and even multicolored, childlike hearts.Commencing with deep shades of navy and black, the collection expands to include bright whites, luminous yellows, and scarlet. In silhouette, the collection is loose, yet tailored, in both its luxurious knitwear and light, bohemian denim. Striped knit vests and t-shirts refresh classic suiting, providing a tasteful, but energetic contrast.
Assche explained, “Here the bourgeois meets the artist, but very much in the present day. There is still the idea of the Individual and human in this collection, together with the release and relaxation of getting away from it all, from the city to the sea.”
NEW YORK, NY July 8, 2014
It was the British, or perhaps the French, invasion all over again as Saint Laurent’s spring/summer 2015 presentation transported the audience back to the 60s. A theatrical representation of psychedelic rock bands down to a single black suit/white shirt-clad band manager, Hedi Slimaneattempted to bring back the days of the Beatles and Pink Floyd.Western references gave models a cowboy vibe as they paraded down the runway in wide-brim gaucho hats, fringed jackets in army surplus camouflages, woven ponchos, and snakeskin boots. Metallic details glittered in starburst patterns on jackets and pant legs and dangled from fringed necklaces against bare chests from open jackets or unbuttoned shirts. With the exception of the few scattered womenswear looks and the strangely out-of-place conservative suit, all of the looks came with a pair of solid black or patterned jeans so skinny they appeared to have been painted onto the models backstage.With a vintage color palette of burnt oranges and browns, patterns like floral, paisley, and miniature polka dot prevailed. Saint Laurent has turned festival season into a reincarnation of the Summer of Love.
NEW YORK, NY June 30, 2014
Inspired by musical vibrations, the JIL SANDER spring/summer 2015 show was serene and rhythmic, deconstructing traditional ideas of metropolitan style.In grey, white, and orchid pinks, the collection offers a light twist on both standard sportswear and suiting. Lemon-lime stripes traverse the edges of garments in the form of graphic details, adding a note of brightness to the otherwise placid palette.
Between the sneakers, sandals, and backpacks, every aspect of the collection alludes to ease. Influenced by musical harmonies and rhythmic abstractions, pleated trousers and buttoned shirts drape effortlessly within the embrace of pastel cocoon coats. Relaxed-fit jackets, elastic bands and cozy, form fitting knits promise comfort, without sacrificing functionality or style.
Next season, Rodolfo Paglialunga will take over as creative director, making this the final menswear season designed by the creative team (sans leader). However, with its effortless suiting and fresh designs, the team’s run surely ended on a high note.