Category Archives: Fashion

MFW: ROBERTO CAVALLI F/W15-16

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The Roberto Cavalli Fall /Winter 2015/16 collection takes its inspiration from an unexpected vision of the Great Country, seen through the lens of the highest Italian craftsmanship.

In this interpretation, iconic Chinese elements become luxurious details and leitmotifs  of a style that is both cosmpolitan and modern.  Oversize gold “pagoda”  buttons  punctuate the dresseses, coats and maxi-gilets at a raised waist, to create an elongated silhouette.  Ming vase inspired floral motifs in golden metal climb up the transparent plexiglass heels of ankle boots worn with dresses both short and supershort and semi-flats worn with loose, tailored pants.  Decorations become jewels: buckles on the wide belts and on the new Heroine  bag that can be worn as a maxi clutch or as a shoulder bag. The last reference to traditional Chinese motifs is in the linings of the long coats, painted and embroidered  like cloisonne’ enamel.

 

Then, a modern motif  inspired by the romantic Chinese heroine  Maggie Cheung:  the windowpane check print cheongesam in the film “In the mood for love.”   This graphic element is newly interpreted as a white stiched leather embellishment on  column coats in wool crepe, in white string embroidery on black micropaillette evening dresses, melded with classic floral patterns, in white pailletes on fur,  or in silk fringed by hand and added to fabric to create an entirely new type of “fur.”

 

Shanghai night dresses, very long or super short in hand lacquered chinese-screen print silk,   ocelet printed ponyskin,  sinuous liquid paillettes with tulle intarsia,  and slender wrapped silk with  velvet embroidery melding opium garden motifs with delicate traces of tiger stripes. Dreamy evening dresses flow with soleil panelleled degradé chiffon plissé.

 

MFW: Missoni Fall/Winter 2015

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NEW YORK, NY March 2, 2015

Trompe l’œil marble veining on the body like tattoos. New space-dyed patterns in wide, uneven and blurred bands like television static. Coloured metallic inlaid within the graphic patter of wood and marble. The alluring marquetry of cuts, patterns and textures. Graphics of the materials from postmodern interior design, like works by Richard Artschwager.

These are the markings of the neo-body-conscious Missoni woman for next Winter armed with the dashing and seductive spontaneity of her “deep in knit” ensembles.

Tight legging-like trousers combine with one-shoulder knits and deep zippered V necks. Overalls in sheer marbled jersey are worn  under metallic mash tank dresses or short tight linear dresses with body-revealing slits. Soft and enveloping, elastic and versatile, satiny and transparent as a second skin. Long masculine jackets and capes with narrow tuxedo lapels, in which jacquard patterns expand like construction games on horizontal, perpendicular and diagonal levels, transforming the veining and zigzags into something more abstract, spectacular and iconic.

Bands of colour from white to black, from orange to bright red from greens to purple to pastel colours. Space dyeing and zigzags, veined and striped jaquards alternate and interact like the mark of an energetic and playful collection that gives freedom to mix and match.

Illuminated by long and ultralight dangling metal coloures fringes earrings and accessorized with calfskin boots, shoes and sabots with slashed upper and C-shaped heels in resin and metal. Little marbled resin bags feature bands with sides and linings in laminated suede.  Large leather bags have two handles and sides in laminated suede.

 

The Bean Bag Chair: Alexander Wang for Poltrona Frau

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NEW YORK, NY March 1, 2015

Poltrona Frau launches this month a limited-edition collection of lounge pieces designed with Alexander Wang. Consisting of two bean bag-style seats and a trunk bar, the furniture creates a relaxed, easy atmosphere easy on the eyes and refined to the touch.

The fashion designed selected Frau’s Pelle Frau® Soul full grain, matte black leather upholstery and shearling to sit atop a geometric, bronze-plated steel base. The velvety leather keeps the seating cozy and comfortable.

The portable trunk bar is also in the ever-trendy matte black, finished with polished steel brims, custom hinges, and recessed steel wheels for mobility. The console can be used as a side table when closed, or mini bar when open. Inside is a black suede lining and compact shelves with steel edging.

“I always loved this idea of hanging out in a basement on bean bags, but taking that youthfulness and re-contextualizing it into something very luxurious and aspirational. Poltrona Frau has such a deep history and incredible knowledge of furniture design. Their level of craftsmanship with furniture is truly distinguished, and together we were able to create something that I’m really excited to introduce,” said Wang.

 

LFW: Mary Katrantzou F/W15-16

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NEW YORK, NY March 1, 2015

Foam pyramids (on garments and on the runway), paisley, and floral motifs were all over Mary Katrantzou’s fall/winter 2015 collection, shown at London Fashion Week on Sunday. The Greek designer found inspiration in horror vacui—the fear of empty spaces—to create ruffled silhouettes with flared skirts, heritage floral fabrics, and decadent ductile ruffle trim. It was an exercise in combining Victorian opulence with techy utopia.

Playing off of the perception of the Victorian woman, Katrantzou used Swarovski crystal and sequin embroidery on voluminous, column silhouettes. By using automotive textile technology (the same type of manufacturing responsible for the shape of car roofs) the designer developed seamless, sculpted forms without the use of stitching. Modernist restraint in shape met maximalist style in ornate (and sometimes odd) detailing and embellishments.

Highlights within this collection include: skirts featuring hand-folded strips of Polyvinyl Chloride, coated, dimensional embroidered damasks with emulated slim plastic strands, feminine heritage prints offset on masculine parkas, intarsia mink, graphic foam appliqués, sheer silk pleats and tech-based accents.

 

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