Category Archives: Fashion

Paris Fashion Week: Saint Laurent SS/15




New York, NY October 1, 2014

The Saint Laurent woman is a most noticeable creature made up of equal parts disco and rock-n-roll, Pat Benatar and Bianca Jagger. Hedi Slimane designs for the woman that has an educated opinion about everything—vintage duds, vinyl, acoustic vs. bass, Glastonbury or Coachella, Amsterdam or NYC—and rarely apologizes, but then again you wouldn’t expect her to. For the past two years, Slimane has turned out rebellious, feminine frocks that appease fashion-forward femmes hell-bent on living their life, skipping continents at a moments notice, collecting artsy mementos and vintage threads along the way to keep her stories alive. She’s tough, and she’s leaving impressions, good or bad, wherever she goes. The designer’s latest collection, thankfully, is definitely no exception.

For his spring/summer 2015 line, Slimane brought the cool funk to the Paris runway, yet again. Loving the look and feel of rock-n-roll of the late 70s and early 80s, the designer mixes tomboyish structures with feminine silhouettes—a sexy trait he’s mastered—with skinny fitting pantsuits in shiny black and exaggerated-lapel leather blazers. Leopard prints make another appearance on shiny gold mini shirtdresses and skinny neck scarves. Slimane loves mixing textures and prints, and he does so again for that added rebel appeal, pairing sequined velvet blazers in jewel tones with tiny striped tanks and leather mini skirts. A patchwork denim mini lends a touch of Americana to a sparkly blazer with a British pop-star appeal.

We don’t know if it’s the woman Slimane represents with his clothes, or his collection in its entirety that we covet most each season, but either way—we really like it.


Paris Fashion Week: Fendi SS/15




New York, NY October 1, 2014

Karl Lagerfeld is always pushing the envelope in fashion and art, creating not only a “new” collection each season but also incorporating playfulness and wit to the shows surroundings. The designer came back to Milan to debut another spectacle with Fendi’s own, Silvia Venturini Fendi for their spring/summer 2015 collection.

About that envelope-pushing: Lagerfeld has made a super-career out of mixing extremely young and new with that of the old. Last season he brought a fully decked-out Chanel supermarket to the catwalk complete with shoppers—ahem, models—in jeweled sneakers, sweats, and crop-tops made out of classic Chanel tweeds and trimmings. For the House ofFendi this season, the designer juxtaposed very youthful silhouettes with more mature lines and concepts. Using a “high frequency” technique with fabrics (less seams, more seamless melding), orchid prints ran rampant on mini dresses and matching cropped jackets. Soft leather tops were slashed in 80s rebellion, revealing very little, but creating an optical illusion. Peter Pan collars solidified that youthful presence, while multilayered separates delivered a more mature submission. Denim made a surprising inception, this textile being a first for Fendi on the runway.

The most note-worthy pieces were the tattered organza-covered mini dresses, one in black and others in pastels, resembling the most adorably chic ostrich we’ve never imagined.


David Bowie In Chicago Only



New York, NY September 29, 2014

David Bowie—the extraordinary and consistently reinvented persona created by David Robert Jones—and his creative process, influences, and massive eclectic output are the subject of the exhibition “David Bowie Is,” organized by the Victoria and Albert Museum and now on view at theMuseum of Contemporary Art Chicago (MCA) through January 4, 2015.

The visually and musically rich exhibition features over 400 objects, including photography, album artwork, handwritten lyrics and drawn storyboards, original fashions, set designs, music videos, rare interview footage, film clips (from The Man Who Fell to Earth to performing with the Muppets in The Labyrinth), and even gifts from his 50th birthday, like a doll projection of two Bowie heads in conversation by Tony Oursler.

The multi-media installation, with motion detector headphones that automatically play music and interviews with Bowie, related to the chronologically staged exhibition, reveal the evolution of his creative ideas, his control of all aspects of the production from idea to lighting, and his awareness of the overall aesthetic experience for audiences.

Bowie’s obsession with fashion and his collaborations with avant-garde designers is evident in the more than 60 stage outfits on display including Ziggy Stardust bodysuits by Freddie BurrettiKansai Yamamoto’s flamboyant designs for the Aladdin Sane tour, and the Union Jack coat by Bowie and Alexander McQueen for the Earthlingalbum cover. Hand sculpted mannequins had to be commissioned to fit Bowie’s 26-inch waist (I was told an outfit even had to be taken out to fit skinny Kate Moss for a magazine cover). From Glam to Pop to Goth Diamond Dogs, to digging into Surrealism, Brechtian theater, mime, West End musicals, German Expressionism, and Japanese Kabuki, Bowie explored it all and brought it back to audiences in the most exciting and unusual ways.

Bowie recognized the power of image cultivation and brand early on, something that naturally drew him into Andy Warhol’s orbit, and they shared a talent to navigate both the glamour of the art and entertainment industries and their seedy underbelly. His characters’ transgressive transformations—exploring alienation, identity, and sexual ambiguity—were an influence on artists from Cindy Sherman to Wu Tsang to Lady Gaga.

He also knew that everything has an expiration date, and he made sure not to get locked in to any one thing. Whatever drove him—an insatiable appetite and talent to create, boredom, desire, being awake for too long under the influence (Iggy Pop was a roommate after all)—it culminated to make him one of the most daring, prolific and consistently groundbreaking artists.

It was rather shocking to know that the exhibition was organized without the curators ever talking or meeting Bowie. All objects were culled from Bowie’s own massive archive, a feat itself that the collection survived a tumultuous rock-n-roll lifestyle. The MCA is the only U.S. venue on the international tour, as its chief curator Michael Darling said to stunned and dismayed New Yorkers, “We asked first.”

A consolation prize for those not traveling to the windy city: the film of the exhibition, David Bowie Is Happening Now, opens on 100 screens across the U.S. this week.


MFW: Coastal Chic KITON SS/15



NEW YORK, NY September 25, 2014

Models took a break from the runway to recline at a colorful and florally embellished dining table for Kiton’s spring/summer 2015 presentation at Milan Fashion Week. Dressed in cashmere, silk, and linen, one-button peak lapel jackets in navy, pale pink, emerald, green, yellow, cherry, and aqua, models embodied the colors of the Amalfi coast.

Kiton focused on casual, carefully crafted daywear for the collection. Combining the high quality tailoring we have come to expect from Kiton with bright colors inspired by the Mediterranean Sea, the fashion house has created a playful and elegant collection. The nautical-themed stripes and boatneck pullovers pair with outerwear of black-and-white waterproof silk. The bold stripes contrast with the light cashmere or double silk coats in powder pinks and blues. Knitwear pieces are cast in pastels, while blouses and long dresses further lighten the mood in lemon yellow.

While daywear steals the show in this collection, Kiton’s evening wear rounds out the line by providing long dresses with the elements of soft drapery, embroidery, floral decorations, and trench coats and leather jackets boast cut-work macramé and ruffles.


MFW: The Charm Of The Uniform GENTUCCA BINI SS/15



NEW YORK, NY September 25, 2014

For Gentucca Bini’s latest collection “The Charm of the Uniform,” the designer takes fashion back to the basics in her utilitarian inspired garments for Milan Fashion Week. Composed of overalls, smocks, and coats, Bini’s collection encompasses the comfort and simplicity of a uniform with sartorial flair. While the silhouettes remain simple, extraordinary attention to detail is put into the materials and stitching of each piece. Each article of clothing features lightweight fabrics in hues of bright orange, white, blue, and gray. While each garment has a slightly different cut, consistent elements such as stitching, buttons, and color choices tie the collection together.Above all, Bini’s inspiration for the looks comes from the practical necessities of her friends, who also double as models for the collection. For instance, Bini took into consideration her friend Pino Pipoli’s distaste for small collars and preference for light fabrics and her friend Luca Cipelletti’s need for functional overalls to wear to the construction site at which he works as an architect.




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