Tag Archives: New York Fashion Week Spring 2006

B-Rude by Boy George Spring 2006: Chame Chame Chame Chame Chameleon

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPRING-SUMMER 2006
NEW YORK, Sep 17, 2005/FR/ – The Altman Building was at its full capacity of sitting and standing audiences Thursday night as Boy George was showing the second collection he designed (together with Mike Nichols) for his brand called B- Rude.

B-RUDE BY BOY GEORGE SPRING-SUMMER 2006. AN ILLUSTRATION BY JULIEN FOURNIE

B-RUDE BY BOY GEORGE SPRING-SUMMER 2006. AN ILLUSTRATION BY JULIEN FOURNIE

Reviving the eighties seemed to be the motto for the collection designed by the off the wall cult singer of these years for Spring 2006. It displayed bubble-gum like colors (Dentyne pink, menthol green, lemon yellow) with black as a counterpoint.

Using pure rubber on shorts or polos for boys and swimsuits for girls, the show did not just consist of gadget clothes for the beach.

The collection in fact also proposes to women some suits with skirts with large psychedelic prints, or medium length sheaths cinched by a set of heavier contrasting cotton belts. Some men could become very fond of a purple feathered and sequined denim ensemble.

Standouts include for menswear a black overall made of lacquered cotton with very sexy biased yellow zipper, and for womenswear a white cotton ensemble with embroidered shiny red crabs.

Very stylized punk hair by Sebastian and vividly colored make-up by MAC completed the show pertinently.

Clubbers and fashionistas will certainly appreciate some garments, but at least a third collection will be required before Boy George can be declared a fashion designer.

Interviewed yesterday, he declared that he was “interested by fashion, because the world of music was now sometimes too formatted” for him; let us hope that the freedom he is looking for will find more maturity? as he will confront the requirements of a really complete collection.

JEAN PAUL CAUVIN

Jeremy Scott Spring 2006: Edgy Egypt

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPRING-SUMMER 2006

NEW YORK, Sep 14, 2005 /FW / – Anubis, Horus, Isis, Osiris, Ra, Sekhmet, Thoth and their likes, headed by King Tut, have inspired Jeremy Scott for his Spring 2006 collection shown in New York tonight at the Altman Building.

If the subversive designer dares tackling the same theme as the most famous luxury brand in the world has used two seasons ago, he does not follow a trend, but opens a track offering the wittiest beachwear collection ever!

JEREMY SCOTT SPRING 2006 "TUT TV" COLLECTION. AN ILLUSTRAYION BY JULIEN FOURNIE

JEREMY SCOTT SPRING 2006 "TUT TV" COLLECTION. AN ILLUSTRAYION BY JULIEN FOURNIE

On a soundtrack that was a mixture of old oriental radio sound and traditional rock and roll, a moving mummy came along, with tight and torn Bermuda shorts and sleeved T-shirt.

The show continued with an impressive number of tops, skirts, tanks, bathing robes and swimsuits designed both for men and women. They were followed by panther prints on eggshell and then dollar green, on the same kind of apparel.

Hunks and desert queens were wearing very fitted bathing suits under robes and wraps. The futuristic Nefertitis’ faces, who displayed a very simple but effective make-up with just two stripes of glittering gold above and under the eye, were wearing very classic black high heels, while the likes of King Tut were walking in heavy panther printed green sneakers.

Gold was also present in the accessories, very big necklaces or bracelets that looked like a new version of Cesar’s compressions and culminated in a very sexy only gold bikini made of metallic leaves.

Wearing only a T-shirt with sleeves that had the shape of a djellabah, a very sexy male guide seemed to open the way to a flock of tourists all dressed in green beach attire with Jeremy Scott’s signature dollar print, gold accessories and sunglasses.

Twenty-first century Tuts and Cleopatras then went to Florida in their lovely tee shirts bearing on their front the logo for this “Tut” collection with hieroglyphically stylized letters and on their backs prints of King Tut wearing sunglasses in a TV set, a surfing mummy, or an antique portrait of the designer as a Roman Caesar.

To whom might think that this collection can hardly sell, I would recommend to have a closer look at the T-shirts, they could easily become must-haves on the beach this season for the trendiest set.

JEAN PAUL CAUVIN

A La Disposition Spring 2006: 21st Century Pirates and Merveilleuses

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPRING-SUMMER 2006

NEW YORK, Sep 14, 2005 /FR / – The designing couple Daniel Kinne and Lynda Cohen, former teachers at the Parson’s School of Design, showed for the third time in New York City a very mature collection at the Altman Building today.

Opening with a corset, which remains the centerpiece of their womenswear wardrobe, A La Disposition, proposed very structured looks with a contemporarily simple flare.

Their goal is not an easy one to achieve, but they have succeeded to convince a very informed audience that corsets could certainly come back when modernized and comfortable to wear.

Eggshell, raven blacks and shades of grey compose for the summer 2006 a palette of smoked colors that reveal the full beauty of their clothes’ architecture.

A La Disposition Spring 2006? An Illustration by Julien Fournié.

A LA DISPOSITION SPRING-SUMMER 2006. AN ILLUSTRATION BY JULIEN FOURNIE

Naval looks seem inspired by 18th century pirates, basqued bodices and pannier skirts brought back the spirit of the Merveilleuses in a resolutely contemporaneous way.

Chiffon was used in one piece as if to wrap a shirtwaist, and black lacquered linen was tailored on a very cleverly counterbalanced dress.

A tuxedo shirtwaist made of white light poplin inlaid with black muslin worn on a double flounced black skirt with a white serigraphy was one of the standouts in the collection.

But the last evening dress was certainly the climax of this extremely refined collection: made of black light taffetas, it displayed Watteau knotted pleats in the back and on its long front pockets.

These shirts, skirts and dresses should find their clientele among very choosy ladies who have a taste for delicate craftsmanship and don’t want déjà vu.

The most demanding clients will be pleased to know that corsets and bustiers can be made to measure upon order, as for their best customers, Daniel Kinne and Lynda Cohen are always “a la disposition”.

JEAN PAUL CAUVIN

David Rodriguez Spring 2006: Languid and Luxuriously Casual

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPRING-SUMMER 2006

NEW YORK, Sep 11, 2005 / FW/ — Set at the Style Lounge at Times Square, the David Rodriguez show actually opened up a whole window of the studio where it was taking place to extend its runway to the extremely busy street outside.

In this unusual and extravagant location, David Rodriguez sent a collection of 48 looks on the catwalk to recall an era of 1970’s jet-set style and decadence.

Adding embellishment and detail to clean sportswear pieces such as tunics, shoulder-baring blouses and voluminous trousers with innovative pleats on the side, this designer obviously inspired by the Mediterranean, has created a relaxed and chic collection for next summer.

MARIE MEYER AND CAROLINE RAUSCH IN DAVID RODRIGUEZ SHOW FOR SPRING-SUMMER 2008 - AN ILLUSTRATION BY JULIEN FOURNIE

MARIE MEYER AND CAROLINE RAUSCH IN DAVID RODRIGUEZ SHOW FOR SPRING-SUMMER 2008 - AN ILLUSTRATION BY JULIEN FOURNIE

His most fantastic pieces are the extremely wide-bottomed trousers, some pleated on both sides, some on only one side or a type of new saruel pants with a side split. The trousers that combined both – a side split on the one side and pleats on the other, worn by Caroline Rausch, were really successful!

These looks will be perfect outfits for a trip to Marrakech’s mythic Mamounia Hotel, a Dolce Vita weekend in Rome or a sophisticated casual holiday on the French, Italian or Spanish Rivieras.

Taking the nuances of desert sands, spices from the medina, and Sienna earth, his linens, chiffons and very light cashmeres all display very natural enhanced colors.

His evening dresses are less convincing and more conventionally shaped. Meant to create major red carpet statements (and too obviously inspired by the shapes of Giorgio Armani), these fail to convince with feathered applications or too many sequins and a general lack of structure.

Two notable exceptions are a sunset sequined long dress with all the shades you expect and the wonderful purple evening outfit worn by Marie Meyer.

Still, David Rodriguez has managed to design a wardrobe for ladies who can easily jet away and could be able to leave the beach, after sunbathing, wearing a quite dressed-up daywear attire that could also lead them directly to a night out on the town.

JEAN PAUL CAUVIN

Kenneth Cole Spring 2006: Established In Refined Elegance

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK SPRING-SUMMER 2006

NEW YORK, Sep 9, 2005/ FR/ — Kenneth Cole kicked off Fashion Week at the tents at Bryant Park this season once more. Inaugurating again such an institutional event can always be perilous, especially when it happens twice a year.

Although the established designer might seem lighthearted about it, one can suspect that being under the opening spotlights every six months also can give the shivers. But Kenneth Cole can be sure he will not lose the growing recognition he has gained through the years.

In his case and with this collection, his fame should even legitimately still be growing as he has managed to combine commercially viable clothes with a very mature creativity.

KENNETH COLE SPRING 2006 - AN ILLUSTRATION BY JULIEN FOURNIE

KENNETH COLE SPRING 2006 - AN ILLUSTRATION BY JULIEN FOURNIE

In this often craved for but not-so-common combination, Kenneth Cole successfully asserts new proportions for women, by underlining his constantly high-waisted trousers with thin belts. He sometimes does the same with his dresses but with much wider belts.

The result is a sixties silhouette made casually contemporary. Be it in his skirts, dresses and trousers, Kenneth Cole definitely seems to proclaim the realm of low waistlines gone, leaving it only to men’s suits.

The womenswear three most iconic looks were all worn by Lily Cole. She wore first a beautiful clover crinkle chiffon double-breasted blouse on an earth-color linen highwaisted trouser cinched by an olive thin belt and matching silk strappy wedge.

Her second look presented a very refined dark navy paper nylon pleated and self-belted dress adorned with an eggshell chain bracelet and a pair of scarlet spectator high heels.

Finally, Lily Cole was seen on the runway in a purple crinkle chiffon self-belted dress walking in old gold ballet flats.

Other most noticeable looks for women in this very refined collection consisted of a dark navy sheared empire waist swimsuit with an eggshell spectator frame tote and eggshell ballet flats. A cropped high-waisted trouser made of a light navy cotton linen with a thin scarlet belt worn with a scarlet crinkle chiffon blouse and Espresso spectator high heels made for another spectacular look.

But the news for Kenneth Cole this season is definitely his use of ruffles ; they adorn with equal success the necklines of silk wrap dresses or blouses.

As far as menswear is concerned the same general organic tones as for womenswear were used eggshell, sands and khakis or as the master designer calls it “moss”.

Small bousons worn on shorts, classic suits of linen, chamois camp shirts are the basis of his wardrobe. Men can also complement it with thinly striped navy pieces for more nautique moments : perfect looks for hype but real yachting in Saint-Tropez or Monte Carlo.

His men”s outfits perfectly complement the women’s looks and their sometimes wide-legged trousers creating an harmomy that is seldom found in such different structures for the two genders.

They also have a common target: a still young but already established clientele who is looking for discreetly refined clothes with generally reasonable colors even if both male and female can sometimes dare a flamboyant scarlet or a frank purple.

JEAN PAUL CAUVIN

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