Tag Archives: spring 2009

Junko Shimada Spring 2009: Brilliant Space Mission

PARIS FASHIONWEEK SPRING-SUMMER 2009

PARIS, October 3, 2008 /FR/ – In her shift of inspiration from the 1950s to sci-fi already started last season with a collection themed around the aesthetics of the movie “Blade Runner”, Junko Shimada is clearly renewing her house’s DNA.

The collection she sent on the runway this afternoon was full of creativity, in a way never seen before at this house, both her inspiration and message in all its nuances clearly showed through in the futuristic presentation. The finishings were absolutely perfect, in the house’s tradition, with the added value of perfectly crafted accessories (shoes and headgear).

Here is the possible story behind the runway show: the catwalk looked like a corridor in a spaceship divided in two zones, one where neon lights came from the floor, and the other where the light came from the ceiling on a black floor. In the background, a row of low-hanging bell-shaped glass containers were carrying growing grass as a celebration of life which needs to be preserved. The futuristic set imagined by Pierre Guillaume and Mathieu Massat of Bowling Club in collaboration with Junko Shimada was clear and sharply combining the futuristic vision from the 20th century, with today’s concerns about eco-friendly concerns.

The collection sent on this runway, clearly blends, in total symbiosis with the set,  cyber and organic elements in an extremely original vision. Black and white are present, like in most futuristic collections in the season, but they are escorted here by colours: bright, fluorescent, vibrating tones enhancing the resolute positive way of looking at a future in which life can persist, and prove pleasurable and graceful.

Some shoes for instance, are an interpretation of a ballerina’s stage shoes, here staying miraculously upright, as if floating in the air thanks to a high heel made of a triangle of see-through plexiglas. The result is stunning : delicately girly, but giving the models a strong way of walking, they express a new equilibrium in the way they assert femininity, both graceful and firm.

Other accessories also also need a special mention like all the headgear pieces made of rhodoid for a futuristic treatment evoking other animals: shrimps, fish as if a new surrealistic vision was born. The ducks and geese printed on some dresses celebrate the delicacy of life and respect for it in the elaborate tradition of Asian natiuralistic paintings reinterpreted for today.
See-through plastic pants are worn over another layer of clothing, while the shiny aspect of vinyl is obtained through an induction on other pants of Klein blue.

Many looks in the collection would deserve a  full description, many pieces of garment and many accessories too. But it lmight be enough to say here that Junko Shimada and her team have managed to do a collection which could be called “The Little Mermaid on a Space Misssion”, without being ever anecdoctic or laughable. The clothes here are fun but the work and reflexion about them are serious. Fashion might appear as frivolous to some people, when it reaches this level of technicity and aesthetics, it can be called a genuine re-creation and confine to art.

JEAN PAUL CAUVIN

Photos courtesy of Junko Shimada

Tribute to Sonia Rykiel on her House’s 40th Anniversary

PARIS FASHION WEEK SPRING-SUMMER 2009

PARIS, October 2, 2008 /FR/ – Last night on day 5 of Paris Prêt-à-Porter, the closing runway show was Sonia Rykiel’s… and a very special occasion too, as the House had decided to celebrate with much panache its 40th anniversary.

After the runway show, inside the Parc de Saint Cloud, with a wonderful 3-D background of the Paris skyline, including the Eiffel Tower, Nathalie Rykiel announced that, as a surpirse, 30 world famous designers had been asked to give their interpretation of Sonia Rykiel’s style.

On the runway, the visions of fashion created by the red-haired Lady of Paris and reinterpreted by Martin Margiela, Jean-Paul Gaultier, Karl Lagerfeld, Christian Lacroix, Olivier Theyskens, Alber Elbaz, Rodarte, Michael Kors, Giorgio Armani, Vivienne Westwood, Alessandra Facchinetti, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Yohji Yamamoto etc. celebrated with stripes, knitwear and red hair the unmistakably “Rive Gauche” style of Sonia.

A dinner party followed and, all generations mixed, danced the night away under the starlit sky. A night like this does remind you that ” Paris sera toujours Paris”. Bravo, Sonia, you have been crowned by many guests Queeen of this season’s Paris Fashion Week and you really deserve it !

JEAN PAUL CAUVIN

Photos courtesy of Sonia Rykiel

Nina Ricci Spring 2009: Romantic Lingerie-like Dresses

PARIS FASHION WEEK SPRING-SUMMER 2009

PARIS, September 28, 2008 /FR/ – In a decor representing the backstage of a movie set inside the tent at the foot of Paris’ Eiffel Tower, were unveiled the long, fluid and romantic silhouettes imagined  by Olivier Theyskens for the season.

Reviving at last the evanescence dear to Nina Ricci’s heart, the designer now seems comforted as the French house Creative Director. As such, he has proven tangibly his skills through the new architecture of the Avenue Montaigne store, recently reopened which after six months of restructuration now displays the full integration by Theyskens of a traditionnal Paris fashion house with a modern twist.

In his collection presented today on the runway, the Belgian desiger, displayed a mix of Japanese inspirations with fabrics and colours typical of hosiery, suggesting powdery tones like the corsets of the first half of the 20th century.

However, no constraint cinches the body in his current collection. As if  the arsenal of heavy finishings had been stripped off, Theyskens’ gowns were floating lightly, as if suspended in the air. Particularly when matched with his signature traily Edwardian coats, they impose respect by conjuring around their fragile aura,  a circle of admirative and respectful distance, in perfect match with his dogma for the season: short hemline in the front, endless fabric in the back.

No matter how beautiful the presentation was, when beauty rhymes eternally with melancholy, the wonderment weans a little, just  from being thus deprived slightly of its essential counterpart: jubilation.

JEAN PAUL CAUVIN

Photos by Pascal-Ambroise Arnaud

Christian Dior Spring 2009: Tribal Chic

PARIS FASHION WEEK SPRING-SUMMER 2009

PARIS, September 28, 2008 /FR/- John Galliano has just hit the right note with a perfectly Identifiable collection for the Dior luxury customer. Immutably chic, no matter how strong the financial crisis hits, the Dior woman will dream of Africa this summer, reinterpreted by the venerable House’s Creative Director.

Africa and its magic are the source for a renewed energy in the Dior galaxy. Although it is the second time that the couturier is tackling the same inspiration, this time, he does it with less literal ethnic expression, in a more sophisticated manner. Yves Saint Laurent, the master couturier who passed away in June this year, had used the same freedom in his treatment of the theme for his eponymous house,  and Dior manages to remind everybody that Saint Laurent had started his career at Christian Dior too.

Galliano’s interpretation of Massai themes is genuine and enhanced by the best means of production in the world of luxury. Adjusted bustiers and tops, new ample sleeves on some jacket, pleated short skirts for daywear leave the leading role to the legline.

The rhythm is highly energetic, perfectly in tune with the soundtrackon a background of cristal totems admirably lit.

Some evening gown however does lose this DNA on the way. is it due to the taming of muslin which revealed the still wild face of Africa under the couturier’s fingers ?

JEAN PAUL CAUVIN

Photos by Eric Sposito

Gareth Pugh Spring 2009: British Sci-Fi Attack on Paris

PARIS FASHION WEEK SPRING-SUMMER 2009

Paris, September 27, 2008 /FR/ – For the first time under the sunlights of the French capital, the new darling of fashion from accross the Channel -and the winner of this year’s ANDAM award- expressed today at Parlais de Tokyo the essence of British eccentricity in futuristic black and white armours, articulately mixing leather and fabric.

Gareth Pugh is first and foremost an architect of clothing who builds around the body shapes of varied geometry that enhance here the neckline, the hips, there a jacket lap. What strikes the attention first in this runway show today were the tubed ruff collars opening the show.

While fading little by little, these medieval ailments, gave way gradually to full sci-fi outfits, which seemed to cling to Thierry Mugler or Claude Montana in a perky rememberance, yet with a new purely bichromic dogma. White rectangular leather pieces were appliquéd to systematically black full bodies.

The looks developed around a tall shape with uniform tights –always white in front, black in the back– emphasized the domino effect. The leather crafting unwinds in a series of tri-dimensional fins that suggest the feminine curves,  while making them more acute. But all the mastery and the homogenous execution
of his work do not preclude the question of his clothes’ wearability, even if one wished that were possible… Somehow, somewhere, some day.

JEAN PAUL CAUVIN

Photos by Pascal-Ambroise Arnaud

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